The prospect of this restaurant based on their brochure and website was quite tantalising, promising “tasteful and detailed decoration” as well as “wonderful food and attention to detail in a luxurious atmosphere”. The sample menu on the website lists a variety of dishes which sounded delicious (if eye wateringly expensive) so we almost fought over who would be the lucky ones to review it! Fortunately for the bank balance they do set price lunches (£10 for two courses, £15 for three courses) so it seemed fantastic value. We actually had Times vouchers so along with the set price lunch we also had a free glass of wine. The 400 year old Thatched Cottage is close to the centre of Brockenhurst, a short walk from the station and with a reasonable amount of parking in front, always a bonus particularly in that area. Were it not for the sign outside you might have thought it was a private house, an impression which is reinforced when you step inside since (if you use the front entrance) you come into a tiny space filled by a sofa and chair and all manner of “knick-knacks” which serves as a lounge for your pre-lunch drinks or, presumably, reception if you are checking into the hotel. Perhaps if we had used this entrance we would have received a warm welcome. Unfortunately we didn’t......However, having hung up our own coats and been given menus we settled down to the eagerly anticipated task of selecting what to eat. whilst having an aperitif. CJ's G&T was downed in tonic, a major sin in her eyes! The menu for the set lunch was limited to two starters, two mains plus a fish dish of the day (though no vegetarian choice) plus three desserts so it didn’t take too long to decide but it gave us a chance to take in the ambience before going into the dining room. And there is a great deal of ambience in this restaurant, mostly in the form of swags and bunches of dried flowers and large quantities of china ornaments. One very unusual feature is an open-to-view kitchen, somewhat reinforcing the impression that you are in a private house. For starters we had the soup, Cream of Celeriac with Truffle Oil, which was very creamy but only lukewarm, and the other choice which was Soy Seared Tuna served on a Bean Salad with Oriental Dressing. That was delicious and such a generous portion that it was almost enough for a main course. The starters came with superb homemade bread and a little pot of French butter. Main courses were Entrecote of Beef which was quite nice but dry, served with very overcooked Waffle Potato Chips and a small green salad dressed with a tasty vinaigrette; and Roast Loin of Pork with Apple Brandy sauce served on a bed of cabbage and half a roast potato. The very rich sauce was good. In the interests of research we felt we ought to have puddings (well, it’s a good excuse isn’t it?) so we opted for the Caramelised Apples served on Almond Sponge and Plums and Marzipan in a Filo Pastry Parcel which were pleasant but not historic. Unlike some of their immediate competitors they provided no tempting little “bites” before the meal and, since we didn’t have coffee, we didn’t discover if they would have served any sweetmeats to round off the meal. All in all, I have to say that our experience was disappointing for a number of reasons. The décor and atmosphere is certainly different and could perhaps be a refreshing change from trendy restaurants all striving to be fashionably minimalist. Unfortunately the only thing which was minimalist at the Thatched Cottage was the service which only became attentive when the bill had been presented and presumably they were anxious to close. It is such a shame because they have a great location, excellent publicity material and I’m sure they can produce truly memorable cuisine. But, at £44 for two lunches, two pre-lunch drinks and service charge it was merely adequate, and not comparable with many of their direct competitors. And if we had paid their a la carte price we would have felt cheated. |
