| Peggy and I had been there in 1995, and had a rather disappointing holiday staying in a budget aparthotel in Costa Teguise (a typical Canarian resort at that time, catering for holiday makers from UK and Germany). So this time we were determined to find the real Lanzarote and succeeded! 15 minutes North of Arrecife lies the small town of Mozaga, once the Administrative capital of the island. Caserio de Mozaga was once the holiday home of an aristocrat family escaping the oppressive summers of Madrid. The décor and ambiance is still one of a bygone era. Calm, brimming with antiques and Spanish memorabilia. Maria Louisa Rodriguez-Bethencourt Codes, Maria to her friends, is part of that same family and runs the accommodation side. The famous restaurant in the converted stables and breakfast room are run by a separate company. Maria made our holiday, providing the list of restaurants below. We spent the rest of the week touring the island, and trying them out for lunch or dinner. As the island is small, and accessible, this was easily achievable. Local recommendations are just fabulous (as long as you share the same tastes, and we did)! So let’s begin with the in-house restaurant, Caserio de Mozaga. This was not on Maria’s list, and regret to say the food was rather hit and miss. Some dishes were delicious (the lamb), while others inedible (the steak). Meat portions are generous, vegetables seemed to be rationed like caviar.  
OK so to a more positive note. It was Monday, and we headed inland for Teguise (not to be confused with Costa Teguise). It’s a very old, pretty white washed town, with impressive architecture and a street of artisan shops selling unusual clothing, jewellery,
etc. We took a break at the local Tea Shop, housed in a most beautiful building, with wonderful inner courtyard windows. It had a whole food feel to it and was an elegant Lanzarote equivalent to those you would find in Camden, London. The list of teas was extensive and the local pastry appetisers delicious.  
After more strolling we headed for the big waves and rugged coastline of Caleta de Farmara, 15 minutes drive away. It’s a sleepy town, with a massive wind swept beach. Restaurant Sol, was a long, narrow affair with a terrace right on the seafront. As it was very windy, we opted for an inside window table and ordered Seafood rice, similar to Paella but the rice had a seafood stock. It was freshly cooked as you would expect in a large paella pan, and quite delicious. We slowly worked our way through it discovering a
variety of fish and shell fish while watching a kite surfer defy gravity on the sea a mere 100 yard from our cosy spot. The food was great and the service charming.  
The next day after a hearty €10 breakfast in the elegant morning room, we headed for Cesar Manrique’s former home, carved out of volcanic lava fields. The house opens at 10.00am and its well worth arriving promptly as it gets pretty busy. Definitely a highlight of the week. Manrique was a visionary designer and architect.   Having worked up an appetite we headed North to Arrieta and Restaurante Amanecer. Very popular with a buzzy patio facing the sea. Food was ok, but not our favourite.   A day in the capital of Arrecife (head for the main drag, equivalent to Oxford St) and lunched at the elegant La Puntille restaurant. We ordered a selection of Tapas which was perfect for a light lunch. Would have liked to have tried dinner too, but no time.  Fast forward to our 4th day and we upped sticks and headed for Yiaza in the Southern corner of Lanzarote, close to the national park. The drive took us through the wine district, not the rolling hills of California or the vineyards of Bordeaux, but a strange lunar landscape punctuated by craters designed to protect the local fines. The main road was dotted with Bodegas all offering wine tasting. Most were rustic, this one was quite swanky with a restaurant too, although we didn’t try it.  Having checked into the La Casona de Yiaza, we dined in the Bodega de Santiago. A charming, rustic bistro with wonderful local produce and pleasant local wine by the jug. (It was so good we went back again on our last day).  Ok we’re on the home run now. El Golfo is pretty and not just for the volcanic lagoon. The sea front is lovely and dotted with lots of seafood restaurants. We tried El Bogesante. Head for the Terrace and watch the waves crashing on the shore. Lots of seafood to choose from. 
One of the pleasures of driving in Lanzarote is the lack of parking restrictions, and other than Arrecife - free parking. Last 2 days and our favourite restaurant. Restaurante Salmarina, Playa Quemada. Simple, clean, pleasant understated service, nice views and wonderful Paella. Just 20 mins from the airport, so what a way to chill out and “eat up” a few hours before check in.  
So a wonderful winter break with some fabulous cuisine – bon appetite! Fact file: Flight: Bournemouth to Arrecife with
Thomsonwww.thomson.co.uk Parking: Bournemouth Airport Car Hire: Holiday Autos (Hertz) www.holidayautos.co.uk Restaurants: Caserio de Mozaga Mozaga, Local fine dining Tel: 928 52 00 60 Hesperides Teguise, Tea House Tel: 928 52 00 60 Restaurante Sol Caleta de Famara, Seafood Tel: 928 52 87 88 Restaurante Amanecer Arrieta, Seafood La Bodega de Santiago Yaiza, Local fine dining Tel: 928 836 204 Restaurante Salmarina Playa Quemada, Seafood Tel: 928 173 562 La Puntille Arrecife, Local fine dining Amura Puerto Colero, High end fine dining El Bogesante El Golfo, Seafood, Head for the Terrace sorry no web link. | 
